Crescent Moon has a binding system that shares characteristics of both, but its single pull loop system falls more into the traditional binding category. MSR makes absolutely bomber snowshoes, but we think their bindings fall short excluding the Paragon binding on the Revo and Lightning Ascent. Part of the reason is their commitment to a strap cinch system.
The logic behind the design is that the bindings can lay completely flat to easily haul along in a pack, but the result is that everything from their entry-level to mid-range strapping systems are merely average in comfort and holding power. Boa A third binding design gaining some serious traction is Boa.
This system utilizes a pretty traditional wrapped binding, but the standard webbing is replaced with wiring that is tightened with the turn of a dial the entire system cinches down on you simultaneously for impressive evenness and comfort. The amount of grip and quality of the crampons and side rails can vary a surprising amount by model and price.
While reasonable for casual walking on flat ground, these designs can be overmatched on hills or snowy conditions. In addition to crampons, most backcountry snowshoes and some recreational models will feature frame rails for added traction on a variety of terrain.
Frame rails run length-wise along the sides of snowshoes and are a source of excellent lateral stability should you find yourself traversing a slope. Keep an eye on the material and depth of your snowshoe traction. Occasionally manufacturers will look to save some money and use lower grade aluminum teeth that aren't quite as burly or tough over the long haul. Stainless steel bindings are found on most shoes, and the deeper and more aggressive the teeth, the better the grip.
There are two general types of snowshoe: an aluminum outer frame with flexible nylon decking, and a frameless solid deck made of plastic or composite. Recently, hybrid models have popped up that use a partial aluminum frame toward the front of the snowshoe with a plastic tail.
Aluminum Traditional aluminum-framed snowshoes are what most people are familiar with, seen in a variety of models above including the Crescent Moon Gold 9, Tubbs Panoramic, and more modern-looking MSR Lightning Ascent. This is a very functional design, with a strong frame protecting you from trail hazards and a pliant but tough nylon deck that makes covering long distances comfortable. The disadvantage is traction.
Although some high-end models do a great job of incorporating as much traction as possible, they still fall short compared to plastic, particularly relative to their weight MSR's Lightning is one exception. Moreover, the decking materials are more vulnerable to tears and the occasional rivet can come out of the nylon decking.
Much more than with a traditional snowshoe, plastic has a harsher and louder heel impact when your foot comes down on hard pack. To summarize, plastic is cheaper and easier to attach traction to, but louder and slightly easier to damage. Unlike hard plastic or aluminum frame models, the unique Eva is built with two layers of foam—a softer compound on the top for shock absorption and a firm layer on the bottom for toughness.
We did have some initial concerns about durability, but our pair has held up well through more than a season of use. The design is geared towards beginners and the lack of a crampon underfoot does impact traction, but it has a nice cushioned feel that is noticeably quieter than a traditional snowshoe when walking on firm or icy snow.
Heel Lift Climb Bars Most high-end recreational and nearly every backcountry snowshoe come with a heel lift, also known as a riser.
The feature is exactly as it sounds: a single metal bar under your heel that can be raised and locked into place for climbs. The raised bar plays the role of a rigid mountaineering boot, keeping you from dropping your heel while climbing up a sustained grade.
The benefit of this feature is reduced calf fatigue, but is it really worth it? But customer demand has remained strong, and even Crescent Moon now offers a heel lift as an add-on for most models in their line-up. In our experience, heel lift bars have come in handy a couple of times during long climbs, say a spring snowshoe to Camp Muir on Mount Rainier.
A grippy snowshoe and poles play a much greater role in making climbing easier, and therefore we feel that this feature is overrated. Helpful on occasion: yes. Certainly not. Flotation Tails One of our favorite snowshoe accessories—and an underrated one at that—are the additional snowshoe tails offered with MSR snowshoes. These add-ons are available for their Evo, Revo, and Lightning lines and are a great way to get all-in-one functionality out of a single pair of snowshoes: throw on the tails for greater flotation in the soft stuff and stuff them away in your pack when you're traveling over firm snow.
Many hikers choose to hit the trail without trekking poles, but what about snowshoeing? Our short answer to the "Do I need poles? If you already have trekking poles, you'll want to pick up a pair of snow baskets that are specifically designed to fit with your make and model. Most snowshoers will be comfortable with their regular waterproof hiking boots and a pair of warm wool socks think medium thickness rather than your lightweight summer hikers.
With high levels of exertion in moderate temperatures in the 20s and 30s Fahrenheit, these types of footwear are all that most people need. But take heart: most these models have undergone some changes. Finally, the bindings are designed to accommodate smaller footwear. Those that already own poles will likely be better off purchasing snowshoes separately, but for beginners that want to remove any guesswork, a prepacked kit is hard to beat.
Outside of poles, one of the most common snowshoe accessories that folks overlook is the trusty gaiter. Typically associated with mountaineering, these waterproof and tough leg protectors are in fact great for snowshoeing. Not only do they keep snow from sneaking through the opening between your pant leg and your boots, they also help protect your pants should you catch a crampon or other sharp object.
For most uses a mid-range model should treat you really well. Our favorite model is the Outdoor Research Helium for their tough and waterproof yet lightweight design. And for serious backcountry use, look to OR's Crocodile gaiters. From groomed trails and rolling hills to deep powder in the backcountry, we break down the year's top snowshoes. Photo Credit. Switchback Travel. See the Atlas Helium Trail See the Yukon Charlie's Pro See the Atlas Run Snowshoe Snowshoe Length Once you get an idea of the snowshoe category you want, it's time to nail down the ideal length.
Snowshoe add-ons and extras: Find out what other gear you might need. Shop all snowshoes. Snowshoes for different terrain At first glance, snowshoes might all look kind of the same. Snowshoes for trails and flat terrain. General snowshoes are: Best for beginners or casual snowshoers. Great for established trails and flat terrain since they have moderate traction.
Shop general snowshoes. Snowshoes for mountain terrain. Mountain snowshoes are: Best for intermediate and experienced snowshoers. Great for using off-trail and on steep slopes since they have aggressive traction. Ideal for snowshoeing in western Canada. Shop mountain snowshoes. Running snowshoes are: Awesome for keeping up a training program through winter. Designed with a smaller footprint and asymmetrical shape to prevent you from kicking yourself as you run.
Shop running snowshoes. What size snowshoes to buy Snowshoes work by creating more surface area than your boots alone. Follow these steps to find your snowshoe size: 1. Determine your fully loaded weight. Follow the snowshoe size chart The chart below provides general recommendations for sizing snowshoes.
Good Okay lb. Good Good Okay lb. Okay Good Good lb. Okay Good Okay lb. Good Good lb. Okay Good lb. Remember to account for the weight of your gear as well. Generally, the heavier you are, the larger your snowshoes should be. Aluminum snowshoes can be as long as 36 inches. Composite snowshoes are more compact — the 8 by inch size is typical. But you can add the aforementioned tails to extend the length and get more flotation.
Choose larger snowshoes for light, powdery snow — they will help keep you afloat. You can go with smaller, more compact shoes for hard, packed-down snow. For steep, icy surfaces, use smaller snowshoes as well. Finally, snowshoe sizes do vary by gender. Snowshoes feature crampons, or cleats, to provide superior traction as you walk. These cleats may be located on various parts of the snowshoes:. One of the coolest features snowshoes offer are heel lifts, also known as climbing bars.
When climbing steep terrain, you can flip up wire bars under your heels to help reduce calf and Achilles strain. Plastic decking. Very lightweight frames, usually made from plastic rather than aluminum or other types of metal. These are a little smaller, so they can help save space on a backcountry hut trip. They are best used when flotation is less important. Check the traction. Grip is provided by crampons, the teeth underneath the shoe that provide traction.
When you are looking at shoes, flip them over to see where the grips are. Most will have two prongs at the toe. Backcountry snowshoes will also include a row of teeth under the heel that gives better traction doing downhill. Consider an add-on tail. If you want greater flexibility to either move off-trail and into deeper snow, or are carrying more weight than usual, you may want to purchase an add-on tail to provide extra length.
This gives better weight distribution and better flotation. Choose your bindings. The way your shoes bind to your feet is probably the most important decision you will make when choosing snowshoes. All snowshoe straps cross over the top of your foot and behind your heel. The heel should be free to move up and down to help you walk. When you choose the bindings, you need to look for the type of material used on the straps and the number of straps on the shoes.
Beginner shoes will have nylon straps, which are more lightweight and easily adjustable. In general, the more straps on your shoes, the greater range of adjustability and support you have.
When you strap in, check for any pressure points against your feet. There should not be any pressure or tightness. If you feel tightness, look for different bindings. Check the fit. If possible, try them out on snow. If you are at the store, ask if they have a good place for you to try them on. Dirt or hard surfaces may damage the crampons, so be careful.
Make sure there are no obstructions like snow, dirt, or other debris between your foot and the binding bed. Attach the binding straps. Start with the front strap, over your toes, then do the one around your heel.
After those two are done, holding your foot in place, attach the remaining straps. Check the tightness of the straps by lifting your foot and taking a few steps. The bindings should be secure, but still allow some freedom of movement. Check for any gaps between the bindings and your boots. You want the straps done as tightly to your boots as possible to prevent snow and other debris from getting in.
This can lead to wet boots, or create pressure points.
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